Although the sound of the engine is obtrusive and cuts out
much of what can be heard from the shore, the fact that we are in the middle of
the Ganges moving steadily towards the city of Varanasi brings intense joy and
wonder. Ahead is the vast iron bridge supporting
both the passage of road and rail traffic.
Some years ago we had crossed the river on the bridge a man and his
young daughter with us in the carriage; as we passed above the sacred water they
swiftly and unobtrusively closed their palms together and, pressing their
fingers to their foreheads, said a prayer to the river. It is a revered being.
Along the banks of the wide stretch of water there is much
life, cows are wallowing knee deep in the mud, children playing on the shore
and dogs picking through the rubbish washing up on the sands. A little way from our boat floats a blackened
shape, on top sits a large crow staring defiantly out as if to challenge anyone
to take its prize. After some moments
gazing at this spectacle, which I take as a large log floating along borne by
the current, I realise that it is in fact a corpse blackened and misshapen from being partially burnt, undoubtedly further downstream on the steps of the
city’s burning ghats. And that the
fierce bird is not defending its means of travel, but its potential food. Here is the death of a human being in its
throwaway form; the family of the dead may not have been able to afford enough
wood, or, once the family have left the burning pyre the body may have been thrown into the
river. For the poor human life is cheap
wherever you are and even death has little dignity.
We travel along the edge of the ancient city,
its tightly packed buildings appearing to tumble towards the water. By the edge are piles of wood waiting to be
used and next to them the smouldering fires of the
dead whose ashes will soon be consigned to the slow moving river. Nearby people are immersing themselves,
washing away the past in rituals of purification.
Impermanence is death: the dying of the leaves, the plants
and all that is living. Impermanence is
also rebirth: new shoots, young life, the newborn. We
may strenuously try to deny this circle, to prolong existence, to worship
youth, fearful of the changes that we see before us. But we are also blind to the beauty of life’s
passing, to the wisdom of age and to the acceptance of our own mortality. The sweet sounds of melancholy fill much
great music and poetry acknowledging the passage of earthly time and our
fleeting existence, as well as sharpening our awareness of the temporary suffering
that we all must feel. For sorrow itself
is also impermanent.
How can we come to terms with this? How do we engage and learn about
impermanence? It seems to me that the
observation and connection with nature is key this understanding. Many small children will see a dead animal or
bird and respond to it; questioning its
passing and relating that to their own existence. Watching the seasons change, connecting with
all ages and being aware of the constant movement of life without succumbing to
the illusion that we can control our existence teaches us to maintain balance
and experience the joy of living; even if we live in the city.
As human beings we are strange in our approach to
death. Our militaristic societies that
are always prepared for or involved in war spending vast amounts on creating and
devising more and more efficient ways of killing. Political ends seem to justify wholesale
slaughter of people we will never see
and do not understand. We glorify
killing and raise as heroes the killers as long as their cause is our cause. But I wonder how many mothers bring their
children into the world, care for them and love them so that these children
will be blown apart or will destroy the
lives of others. Whilst some scientists
are working tirelessly for the alleviation of the suffering of humanity, many
others are putting similar energy into methods of untold destruction; ensuring
that we are quite capable of destroying all human life.
So I want to end this with the questions of the relationship
between death and violence, and death and peace. Do we consider the importance of living
peacefully? If so how does this impact
on the way we educate each other, as friends, parents, students and teachers?
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